African braids 2026: box braids, knotless, Fulani, cornrows, the complete guide

African braids are one of the oldest and most-practised hairstyles in the world. They trace back to West African cultural practices over 5,000 years ago, with Egyptian frescoes, Yoruba sculptures and 19th-century ethnographic photographs all attesting to their unbroken transmission. Today they're equally a style and a heritage, a hair care practice and a political statement, an economy and an art.

Behind the generic "African braids" label sits a multitude of distinct techniques. Box braids, knotless braids, Fulani braids, cornrows, twists, micro-braids, jumbo braids, lemonade braids: each has its own method, cost, longevity and aftercare. This guide pulls together what you need to know before booking, written with our pro afro hair stylist network across London, New York, Toronto, Lagos, Cape Town, Paris, Brussels and Montreal.

Box braids: the timeless reference

Box braids are the most popular and recognisable braids. The hair is divided into square sections (the "boxes"), then each section is braided with or without a synthetic or natural hair extension.

Installation time: 4 to 8 hours depending on size and quantity.

Wear time: 6 to 10 weeks max (beyond that, you risk matting and breakage at takedown).

Average price: £80-180 in the UK, $100-250 in the US, CAD 150-300 in Canada. Higher in London and NYC, lower outside major cities.

Best for: all hair types from 3B upward. On very tight 4C, braiding takes longer but the result is stunning.

Before the appointment: don't wash your hair the morning of. Braids hold better on slightly oily hair (natural oil helps the extension grip).

Knotless braids: the recent revolution

Knotless braids are an evolution of classic box braids. Instead of starting each braid with a knot (which creates significant scalp tension), the stylist begins with your natural hair and gradually feeds the extension in as the braid progresses. The result: no painful tension, no scalp bumps, and a more natural look at the roots.

Why it's different: reduced tension on the follicle protects the frontal hairline and dramatically lowers the risk of traction alopecia (hair loss from braids worn too tight for too long).

Installation time: 6 to 10 hours (30% longer than classic box braids).

Wear time: 6 to 10 weeks, similar to box braids.

Average price: £100-220 / $130-300 / CAD 180-350. Count +20 to +30% vs classic box braids.

Best for: everyone, and especially recommended if you have fragile temples, brittle baby hairs, or a history of traction alopecia.

Fulani braids: the Peul heritage

Fulani braids are cornrows with a recognisable signature: a central parting from forehead to crown, fine fanned braids on the sides, and often decorative beads or cowries at the ends. The name comes from the Fulani people of West Africa, who have worn this style for centuries.

Installation: 3 to 6 hours. Wear: 4 to 8 weeks. Price: £80-180 / $100-230.

Best for: everyone. It's a protective style that frames the face and highlights bone structure.

Cornrows: the foundation of everything

Cornrows are braids close to the scalp, in straight parallel lines or complex patterns. It's the foundation technique behind all African braiding. Master cornrows and you can achieve every other variation.

Installation: 2 to 5 hours. Wear: 4 to 6 weeks max. Price: £50-130 / $60-170.

Best for: athletes (braids don't move), kids, and as a base before a sew-in or wig.

Twists: the gentler cousin

Twists (two-strand twists) aren't technically braids. Two strands are twisted around each other instead of three crossed. The result is more voluminous, rounder, and quicker to install.

Installation: 2 to 5 hours. Wear: 3 to 6 weeks. Price: £60-150 / $75-200.

Best for: anyone wanting a protective look without the formality of box braids. Particularly flattering on 4A to 4C hair.

How to choose: 5 questions to ask yourself

1. How long do you want to keep the style? Box braids and knotless: 8-10 weeks. Cornrows: 4-6 weeks. Twists: 3-6 weeks.
2. What scalp tension can you tolerate? Sensitive scalp, history of traction alopecia, fragile baby hairs: go knotless rather than classic box braids.
3. Budget? Simple cornrows £50-100. Box braids and knotless £80-220. XL or multi-colour braids: add £20-50.
4. What look? Natural and subtle: knotless. Bold statement: box braids or Fulani. Sporty and discreet: cornrows.
5. What length? Mid-back, waist, hip-length? The longer, the more time and money.

Aftercare: 6 rules that double the lifespan

1. Satin bonnet or silk pillowcase every night. No cotton: cotton snags, breaks and dehydrates the hair.
2. Spray bottle of warm water plus leave-in, 2-3 times a week. Braided hair dries out, so rehydrate without soaking.
3. Plant oil on the scalp weekly. A few drops of jojoba, baobab or Jamaican black castor oil massaged into the scalp. Stimulates circulation and feeds the follicle.
4. No aggressive washing. If really needed, diluted shampoo in a spray bottle, applied only to the scalp, gently rinsed.
5. Avoid hot baths. Hot water relaxes synthetic extensions and accelerates matting.
6. Respect the maximum wear time. Beyond 10 weeks, breakage risk at takedown becomes serious.

Takedown: the critical phase

The quality of takedown matters as much as installation. Rushed takedown, dry, no detangler equals massive breakage, sometimes years of growth lost.

Rules: detangle on damp hair, coated with a spray detangler or diluted conditioner. Work section by section. Allow 2 to 4 hours for a complete box-braid takedown. Get help if you can't do it alone.

Many of our stylists on Miapoda offer takedown-only services (£30-60). Don't overlook it. It's often a net gain for your hair.

After the braids

Once the braids are out, your hair needs recovery care:

1. Pre-shampoo plant oil: 1h under a heat cap with coconut or avocado oil.
2. Gentle sulphate-free shampoo.
3. Hydrating or protein mask depending on fibre state (limp hair calls for protein, dry or brittle hair calls for hydration).
4. Final oil bath: Jamaican black castor oil scalp massage to stimulate regrowth.
5. Tension-style break: 2-4 weeks in loose natural hair before re-braiding.

Finding the right braider

African braids demand real expertise. On Miapoda, our network of pro afro hair stylists is listed in every major city: London, Birmingham, Manchester, Dublin, New York, Atlanta, Houston, Chicago, LA, Toronto, Montreal, Sydney, Lagos, Cape Town, Johannesburg. Every profile is vetted, prices are transparent, reviews are verified. Filter by braid type, price range, hair type and availability.

One last thing: African braids aren't simply a hairstyle. They're a moment, a transmission, an economy. Choosing a stylist of confidence also supports an ecosystem that maintains 5,000 years of craft.